The Republics of the Philippines and Palau have some unusual affinities and striking historical similarities. According to Kambes Kesolei of the Palau International Coral Reef Center (PICRC), Palau and the Philippines both sit on the same Philippine Sea Plate, with Palau at the southeastern boundary. Based on Mr. Kesolei’s detailed explanation of our geological ties, I like to think that the two archipelagos have a common “geologic navel”. Ecologically, the similarity  between our two archipelagos is obvious in the vegetation common to both. Coconuts, papayas, mangoes, gumamelas, orchids, kalachuchi, and other familiar plants grow abundantly in backyards and along the roads.

Like the Philippines, Palau came under the rule of Spain (1885), Germany (1899), Japan (1919), and finally the United States at the end of World War II in 1946. In 1994, Palau gained its independence when it signed the Compact of Free Association with the United States. As in the Philippines, these countries imprinted their influences on Palau. Spain introduced Catholicism, Japan left strains of Japanese melody on Palauan popular music, and German names are visible all around.

The relationship between the two countries became closer when Filipinos began supplying Palau’s labor needs. Now, Filipinos comprise one-fifth of Palau’s population of around 19,129. In every establishment we entered, be it an Internet café, a museum, a gift shop, even an eye clinic, we ran into a countryman, so that you could speak Tagalog almost anywhere you go. Words like “Kuya” or “Manang” have become commonplace.

All these make you feel like you have not left the Philippines, but the differences pull you back to reality. The entire Palau archipelago, including Koror, the capital and the only city, is only 325 miles long. One resident told me that you can drive the one main road that runs from one end of Koror to the other end in ten minutes. There is not one movie house on the islands, and department stores are much smaller. However, in Palau, you would not go hungry nor would you have to wait very long for a table because there are 69 restaurants and 21 hotels, and about a dozen bars, karaokes and night clubs. In contrast, Tagaytay, with a population of 45, 287 has 13 hotels and 18 inns/apartelles and 35 restaurants and fast food outlets.

 Knowing this, one is tempted to ask, “What can I do there”? Surprisingly, in the six days that we were on the islands, we had plenty to do. Between getting up late, leisurely eating large breakfasts, going to the museums, snorkeling, shopping for souvenirs, and having dinners with our hosts, we had no time to explore other aspects of Palauan culture, like a “Bai” (the traditional village meeting house) or the ancient cave rock paintings.

A “storyboard” about the Tree of the Ngibtal Legend

Instead of malling, a visitor should take advantage of the islands’s main attraction, its waters. As I was looking down from the windows of the plane on its slow descent, I was intrigued by the unique sight of what appeared like lush wreaths arranged in the calm waters of the lagoon. I later found out that these were the Rock Islands. Around them, the waters reflected all the conceivable hues between blue and green – emerald, jade, navy, olive, indigo, moss – depending on where I looked. It turned out that the visual feast of colors were only a prelude to the other pleasure afforded by these waters. As Palau and the Philippines are both located in what geologists call the “golden triangle” of coral reef diversity, they share an astonishing variety and lushness of fish and coral species. Scuba aficionados from around the world, Jacques Cousteau among them, rate Palau’s numerous diving sites to be among the world’s best for the stunning variety of its marine life. In addition, its calm waters, spotless visibility and unusual historical remnants like the sunken wrecks of Japanese seaplanes, distinguish Palau’s diving sites. If you are into sports fishing, you can look forward to matching wits with Palauan big fishes such as barracudas, marlins, and tunas that flourish in the carefully nurtured immaculate waters of the lagoon. If you do not feel up to the challenge of grappling with the big fish, you can just lie back with a fishing line and enjoy counting the catch while paddling around in a boat. Prominent guests as Darryl Hannah and the late John F. Kennedy Jr in the past, and more recently, Ambassador Francis J. Ricciardone and Senator John McCain have discovered the pristine beauty of Palau. Even the TV series “Survivor” filmed here two months ago and left the country a $5 million windfall for its hospitality.

Our boat trip around the Rock Islands satisfied one of my greatest curiosities about Palau. With a boat filled with 3 tanks of gas, 2 bottles of oil, a cooler stocked with yellow fin tuna sashimi, unicorn fish, chicken and steak, fruits, soda pop, chocolates, we set off on a beautiful sunny day for a 10-hour trip around the Rock Islands and I finally saw upclose what, from the sky, had peaked my curiosity. The “wreaths” are limestone coral reefs whose bases were undercut by ocean currents, and they afforded even a simple snorkeler like me, plenty to look at when I finally went in the waters around them. Carrying a cooked piece of cassava to feed the fish, I immediately attracted an excited swarm of fishes in a dizzying array of brilliant colors and assorted sizes, from silver 18-inch barracudas to striped, dotted and solid-colored other varieties. I was overwhelmed as I swam surrounded by schools of fish fluttering all around as they competed for the piece of cassava. For a humbling instant, I felt connected to that animated throng of exquisitely-colored creatures. At one point, one of them nipped at my gold bracelet, apparently attracted by the its gleam. Seeing the size of some of the fish, I decided to clamber back up on the boat concerned that a big one might take a fancy to my leg. Indeed, there is plenty to do, and I have not even mentioned trekking up to Jellyfish Lake to snorkel with the stingless jellyfish (above).

Our hosts surpassed themselves in their hospitality and this being the Christmas season, we enjoyed dinners with them, savoring delicious local favorites like unicorn and parrot fish, Napoleon wrasse, and wahoo. The night we arrived, a member of Congress invited us to a soiree planned by the Speaker of the House for the Congressional staff. I was surprised to see a real lechon as the star of the buffet, and even more surprised that the Palauans knew it by that name. I thought, “They also know how to cook it right”, after I tasted the crisp skin and the moist, tender meat. As it turned out, it was indeed cooked by an expert, a Filipino chef. Our hosts suggested that we try native specialties like beef cooked in the leaves of the betel nut and clams in coconut sauce, and we were delighted we did.

Despite centuries under foreign rule, Palau retains much of its indigenous culture, now incorporated in its present political and social structures, and its arts. Its matrilineal system is still intact and is embedded in the modern political system, where this concept translates in the practice of giving only men the right to hold office, and the women the sole right to vote.  For the family, it means, for example, that when a young boy needs to be disciplined, his mother’s uncle or aunt appropriates the duty. Our host repeated a popular joke that best describes the system: “Palauan men are like lions who are brave, fierce and strong, but the women are the trainers”. Palauan dance, music and storyboards carved in mahogany or mangrove wood keep alive indigenous art and tradition.

Palau showcases how people and nature can live in harmony in enjoying, preserving and sustaining their natural resources. If you want to experience “The Rainbow’s End” as the Palauan Visitors Authority calls it, stop by the Palauan Embassy in the Marbella II Building on Roxas Boulevard to find out how to do it.

© 2005-2006 Violeta P. Hughes-Davis
All rights reserved.